but there's nothing like holding the real thing in your hand and getting a feel for how this is notched.Īlso I have a source for stuff like curly, spalted maple. If you want I can take some pictures of it to post. I'd be willing to loan it out to you wood butchers if you think it would help you get a leg up on what your doing. It's got the holes drilled or rather bored and notched out and the bottom has the hole drilled for the screw. the top is radius cut to follow the curve of the frame. looks like black walnut wood blank from Dan Wesson. "Woodie" is a station wagon paneled with real wood. I'd be willing to bet that to most of us here. BTW I am eager to see your logo idea, mine is kind of crude but I figured at least y'all Texans would like the way I did it. Should not be to much different from the large frame, just a few details. I realise I am geting chatty here, so go ahead an knock out a set and maybe you can show me a better way. I hope for my next attempt to be a small frame grip. The first thing I will need to do is decide on a wood and acquire enough, as this chopping up dead trees is best left to woodpeckers. I have contemplated trying to mass produce the grips (on a very small scale of course) for the group but haven't decided if I am set up to do a quality job with any reasonable rate of production yet. Also I found by checking several of my DW original grips that there are several different versions of in-letting. I considered building jigs for using a router to do at least some of the in-letting but didn't want to work that hard unless I was going to build a bunch of these. I guess it's just what the worker is most comfortable working with. Although a router would do a lot of the work I did on the table saw and with the mortising machine. A router table could be used, although I am not sure if long enough bits are available as the hole for the grip tang is almost 3 inches deep.
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